Sunrise over the lake, where I woke up in Panjakent After Panjakent, it started to get steep. I climbed 60 miles, as the road began to offer me extra steep grades as I rode into the mountains. So far, this was the most stunning ride of the tour, visually. The cliffs rose up over the river valley as I got deeper into the mountains, the temperature was also not so incredibly hot in the middle of the day. A man in traditional clothes who was painting a fence I stopped at a village to eat some somsa and found a place on the side of the road in the shade to take a nap. It probably wasn’t the most appropriate place, as I woke 20 minutes later to a bunch of little kids admiring my bike and staring at me. All testing out their “Hello” like broken records all vying for a reaction. I was a bit groggy, and also a bit annoyed. They couldn’t say anything else and none of them spoke Russian. I put on some sunscreen and kept riding. Climbing higher into the mountains along the Zarafshon riv...
I took off from Samarqand, a little sad to leave such a magical city, but my final leg of the trip was waiting for me. I had a relatively short ride today, only 40 miles. On the way, I passed the first bike tourer I had seen this entire trip, he had ridden from his hometown in China and was also headed to Dushanbe - we rode a few minutes together, but he was much slower than me and also spoke almost no English, so we said goodbye. First bike tourer I ran into the entire trip I rode on to the Tajikistan border. Although I would rate this border quite low on the sketchiness scale - it also scored rather low on thoroughness. Man riding close to the border wearing a traditional Uzbek/Tajik hat The Uzbek side of the border was typical - my passport and visa were scrutinized, checked several times and I got my stamp. I walked over to the Tajik side and passed several windows, some had people in them but waved me through, others were closed. I couldn’t...
I slept in, determined to get some rest. I ate some baklava and cherries that I had purchased the day before and adjusted some things on my bike - pumped up the tires, lubed the chain, sorted some things in my bags. When I tried to use the washing machine in the apartment, it appeared to be broken. I thought that there might be some kind of trick to using it and I wrote the Airbnb owner. But no, it was broken. As I started to begrudgingly handwash my clothes (admittedly, it's only two outfits), he texted me that he would arrive soon with a brand new washer. So I waited around for that, he came with some handymen, removed the old washer and installed a new one on the spot, this was a bit of a step up from camping. Looking through the bazar to Bibi Khanoum in the back I put up my clothes to wash and went to the Siob bazar. This is a large open-air market in the center of Samarqand. It's a huge open market, with some traditional elements, delicious tried fruits and nuts and so...
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