Cycling Day 11: Jizzax to Samarqand

 I was exhausted getting up in the morning after the long ride the day before. But I wanted to get to Samarqand, where I was planning to rest for a couple of days - so that alone was motivation enough to get over the hills which started early in the ride.

Morning sunrise in the middle of the hills

It was already in the upper 90’s by 7:00 and my legs were feeling tired. I had only gone 20 miles but I left Jizzax before the town had woken up, so I needed to put some calories in me. I already knew I would struggle to start again, the last couple of days of riding had been fairly intense - I was between fatigue and needing to avoid the increasing heat. I drank an energy drink and had some eggs and sausage. Once I got to the top of the climb - another 20 miles, it was a merciful 20 mile descent into Samarqand (with one last kicker before the town). 

A typical breakfast “zavtrak” of eggs and various types of sausages.

But finally, I was there. I rented an Airbnb directly in the center of town. The location was perfect - with a direct view of the Registon, the heart of the ancient capital consisting of three schools, or madrashes surrounding a large courtyard. Behind the Registon was a long pedestrian street with other intact tenants of the ancient city as well as shops, restaurants and a bazar. I rode the length of the street as I entered the city.

I unloaded my stuff and took a nice air conditioned afternoon nap.

The registon at sunset

I got up to explore in the evening. I walked around the Registon area and then went off to find some non-Uzbek food. I settled on a sushi/pizza place not far from my apartment (in Central Asia, all sushi places also serve pizza, it’s expected), although just far enough that I decided to ride my bike there instead of walking. This was enough for someone from one of the tables at the restaurant to come over and talk to me, seeing as I was already out of place. He I strides himself as Sherzod and he spoke excellent English - he has been living in London for the past 20 years with his wife and two kids and they have come back to Samarqand to spend the summer, since he can work remotely. He took my number and said he would call me the next day to hang out or go see something in Samarqand.

I needed to get back to my place and sleep.

In the evenings, the Registon has a light show on the square.